This is by far the easiest Tudor headdress to make and the cheapest as it doesnt need either a lot of fabric or to be trimmed .The hood will only need a cardboard cereal box and some small pieces of fabric.
I have organised the instructions so that once you have the basic shape you can stop with a finished hood at any point ,so for the simplest hood there are instructions only for adding a lining and outer fabric.To make a slightly more complicated hood you carry on down the post ,so you can make a hood that’s decorated in assorted ways and finally make a hood with an added veil .
For all the hoods you will need a cereal box
and these tools
Plus some fabric
The inner and outer layers.
Ideally a cushion or pillow sized piece of white cotton or linen
A cushion sized piece of outer fabric,this can be plain linen if you want a lower class hood but silk ,taffeta,damask,brocade and velvet are the normal fabrics I use.
A small length of trimming for around the front edge,an old necklace would work or a string of plastic pearls.This is optional for most styles but if you make the first style of hood its probably best to trim it.
A length of pleated trim.
This can be bought on line or from some fabric stores,it goes around the inside of the hood,I very rarely use this as I dont feel its essential but you might like to add some if you have it easily available .
To make the hood base
Take a cereal box and cut it along the edge so that its flat.
Now cut the box into a strip wide enough to go across your head and to the bottom of each ear or as close as possible.
,for the width it needs to be wide enough across your head to part cover it but with a few inches spare to turn over at the back to create an open box type shape .Your wanting to make this shape
cut along the back at a few point to make some panels to fold over ,you don’t need to cut shaped panels just make the cardboard easily shaped.
If the hood shape is not quite right use some cellotape across the top and inside front to shape it slightly more ,you press the end of the cellotape down and then pull it tight shaping the hood as you go ,it sounds odd until you actually do it ,,
Cover the whole of the outside of this hood base in cellotape ,make sure its flat and smoothed down so it doesnt make crinkly noises.This will make the headdress very flexible and also waterproof ,You can also cover the inside but I usualy just cover the front edge and the bottom of each side.
Cut a generous amount of white fabric for the lining ,put it inside the hood and see if its long enough for the style of edges and front you want.For the easy hood it just needs enough to sit flush and cover the inside .For a pleated hood you need more and to try out how many pleats you want.Don’t sew the fabric yet this is just to judge if you have the right amount for your chosen style,if not you can use a design which works with what you do have.
For the simplest hood or if you are short of lining fabric or cant find any white fabric you can make a later style where you dont need much fabric or can use any colour for the lining or even the same fabric as used on the outside.
This simple style is very quick ,uses very little fabric and looks effective .It can take as little as half an hour and usually takes less than an hour .However its not an accurate early style,For a very accurate early style you could make a fur covered hood.
These are very quick to make and very warm if your outside in bad weather.You can make one by cutting up an old fur hat or fur scarf its not essential to buy fur fabric.They are unusual but accurate
To line the hood.
To make any style you first need to stitch down the lining , to do this stitch the untrimmed cut side to the outer side of the hood base.This will hide the rough edge.
Now pull it back over the front of the hood and push it inside.
To cover the hood.
Now place the outer fabric against the white fabric on the outside of the hood and tack it down in the same way stitch it wrong side and pull it over the outside of the hood.
If you cover the join with trim or pull the lining over the join making a simple fold you have the hood more or less finished.
Just add a few stitches to secure the hood lining
.If you make this simple style and want to add more decoration you could add trim to the outside or a frill to the inside or both .
Or missing out the next steps you can go to the end of the post for instructions on making a veil and add a veil
To continue for a pleated style hood.
Optional further stages
If you want to add more detailing by adding folds to the outside of the hood .Once you reach the stage where you have stitched on the lining and outer fabrics you have the point at which the pleats need making ,its best to make them quite deep so you can cover over any stitching.I add a few stitches to keep the folds in place but they are not essential
If you dont have any or if you dont have very much white fabric you can fold the outer fabric instead.
Adding folds does mean using more of one or both both fabrics depending on how many folds you will need a third or half as much again..
Securing the fabric for pleated hoods.
Once you have the outer part finished you can tack down the lining securing it to the hood frame ,this doesnt need to go right into the cardboard at every place but it does need to go through in some parts.
Pull the outside fabric flush at the back and sides and sewn it down,if your adding a veil you can make the stitching quite untidy at the back as it wont show.Like wise if your trimming the outside edges of the hood you can just stitch both fabrics together and hide the join with trim.
If you want to add more detailing to this style you can add a trim of pleated fabric ,you can buy this on line or from fabric stores ready pleated.It makes a nice finish inside the hood and can look flattering.It just needs tacking onto the hood lining at the front.
Or you can add a trim to the hood
These all add authentic looking detailing easily and quickly.
To add yet a further variation which is more complicated but add extra authenticity you can fold the bottom edge of the white trim to make either a short or deep white panel .
Now stitch the lining down as desired ,you might want overlaps at the side or leave it flush as above.
Its also more accurate to add a veil as most have these in portraits
This is easy to make as its made like the french hood veil,
cut a long piece of black fabric fold it over and sew it into a tube
Now stitch this to the back of the hood
The hood is now finished.
If you need more details or any help making the hoods please let me know by adding a comment below.