Farewells and new starts

I have this week finished my last costumes and accessories ,I am nolonger able to sew ,so while I will a add more of the cheats guides and  the occasional new costuming research  post  and I still hope to answer any queries on the “cheats costuming guides “as quickly as possible.

After almost a decade of costume work I thought  would add one final short post that covers my all time favourite costumes ,most have a cheats guide post on my blog elsewhere how to make them There are no dresses shown here that could not be made by absolutely anyone however inexperienced and they do not need anything other than a needle, cotton ,scissors ,a modern clubbing or evening boned bodice /corset top and some fabric .The only other essential is time and patience .

charlttoe dress christ

 

I am hard pressed  to think of one complete favourite but from each era theres a gown I really loved ,from the Elizabethan ,late Renaissance its this gown as it was extremely comfortable and also very adaptable.It was made from faux silk damask which was washable and rarely creased .I made it using the cheats guide Tudor gown method but designed both front and back to be wearable as the front of the dress and also made the modesty panel under the lacing wide enough and long enough to be used as a stomacher under the lacing

queenie unedited

The gown shown front laced over a under panel with wrist and neck ruffs,wide hoop bum roll and soft boned corset

ven gown

The gown shown Venetian style Front laced over just a chemise and narrow hoop.

Below is the gowns first incarnation ,I originally had tie on sleeves  ,something I can heartily recommend against,they are incredibly difficult to tie on without help ,they are incredibly hard to get the chemise to pouf out from without having a very full chemise sleeve and they are a pain in the neck to keep on,I also didnt like the gown back lacing.

The front lacing version was easy to get into without help ,its probably the only renaissance dress I was able to get into unaided

la reine margot gown

It uses 4 metres of red and gold faux silk damask ,but you could also use cotton damask .It has a wit and wisdom bodice which I used as a base for the dress bodice and recovered it using the procedure in my cheats Tudor gown guide.The skirt is just a long oblong of fabric stitched along one edge with a gap at the back then pleated and stitched onto the bodice ,the sleeves are also just oblongs of fabric stitched with little gaps left ,later I made the sleeves narrower at the cuff and added a lot of extra edging trims before stitching them onto the gown with puffs of white fabric to fake  chemise stitched under them.

This dress doesnt really need any accessories such as a head dress and the gown will look ok without a hoop (as seen above) though it looks better with one .

Its also possible to make the gown into a Tudor gown very quickly by just sewing on sleeves and cutting the front of the skirt open so a petticoat can be worn under it

mary_tudor_gown_by_abigial709b-d47i53y

You can make a matching pair of very Elizabethan looking gloves by buying a pair of modern fake suede or suede gloves,vintage gloves give the best shape but very cheap modern gloves also work perfectly well .The glove can be quickly made into authentic looking renaissances ones by adding a panel of embroidered trim or rich looking fabric and trimming that with gold or pearl trim.

gloves front

Making these gloves was one of my favourite costuming tasks ,as they were an essential for outside work but were a nice detail added to costumes and very quick to make

gaunt gloves

pink gloves

glove tops red

Or you could just add a fur panel ,the fur below is ermine but rabbit or faux fur would also work

ermine gloves

Tudor gown favourite

By far my favourite Tudor gown was this red flocked taffeta gown and matching hood

red_tudor_gown_by_abigial709b-d3kebe1

reddresseated tudor gown

The flocked taffeta fabric is very hard on the fingers to stitch ,but is easy to use as it doesnt fray  and  very easy to wear as it doesn’t crease  and is also fully washable .I used the same recovered bodice method as for the Tudor and Elizabethan gown guide

The petticoat is made from Gold faux silk damask ,the hood using my cereal box method is covered in the same red flocked taffeta trimmed with a pearl necklace from primark

hood1

All my own costume  French  and other hoods were made using that method .The black velvet hood is the easiest to find fabric for and to make as black velvet skirts etc are usually easy to buy in charity shops  and usually lined in black lining fabric that can be used for the back veil while pearl necklaces can be bought in many dress or accessory shops

bolyen hood

My favourite french hood is probably the one below made with red and gold faux silk damask and trimmed with gold and seed pearls.

narrow red hood

black french hood

My favourite overall Tudor head dress to wear has to be the English intermediate or transitional  hood as its easy to make easy to wear and easy to put on

green tudor gown front

gable-hood-transistional-hood

My favourite Victorian gown style is probably the bustle gown ,though its the most complicated to wear and make .

back claudia gown

blue_cladia_gothic_gown_by_abigial709b-d46rjfn

This blue gown did admittedly take me several weeks and  the back ruching took a great deal of reworking to get correct ,yet bustle dresses are basically just a straight skirt  which can be made from a oblong of fabric(Using the cheats under layers guides ) with a plain boned bodice dress over it ,(using the dress guides ) .The skirt of which  is stitched flat at the front but gathered at the back  and which is either very long and gathered up to create the typical folds at the front then the excess gathered and draped to create a bustle .

bustle red

has a very long back or a separate long piece of fabric for the bustle or train .

You can create a more impressive bustle by adding more pieces of contrasting fabric and stitching on frills.

bustle1

But the gown construction is still basically the longer than normal overdress and a skirt

wgw red gown

The red gown above and below is an old favourite,I was wearing it when I was first asked to give a lecture and also for my first work in Haworth.

christmas market sat2

,but it was also the only gown I probably wore more for pleasure than work as I made it to wear for some events we attended.

back heb

 

My overall  favourite Hoop gown and the easiest to make is the Green gown which was for a long time my work gown

green dres

 

I made the same tiered style a few other times but the green one having curved edges cut with pinking shears rather than hemmed took much less time and was much easier

Medieval gowns

My favourite to wear is easily the gothic era style gowns which are a covered short front lacing bodice with a panel of fabric below the lacing and a fur collar over it,while the tall Henin head dresses are the hardest headdresses I have ever made so I will try to add a cheats guide post on making them.

henin gown

henin

Lastly my favourite 18thc gown and again by far the easiest to recreate ,,though the three foot tall hair is less simple .The dress is basicaly a Tudor gown and bodice with a frill added to the waist and a front panel added to lengthen the bodices front ,worn over a petticoat.The main difference is that the skirt is partly pleated edge to edge at the waist ,you allow the open front to have one normal pleat which will go onto the bodice ,then you la the skirt flat on the floor and  stitch most of each side of the skirt to the other part its lying on  leaving just enough fabric to stitch the skirt onto the bodice ,this  makes two sides rather than onto the bodice directly

pantoweekend court mantua

me harry panto

As always in costuming the detail is what makes the outfit look impressive not the skill that goes into the outfit,I added two pieces of purple velvet to each sleeve and edged it with gold braid .I also added gold and purple trim to the skirt faux Mantua panel.

mantua cuffs

Finally  close ups of the detailing for an assortment of costumes ,the details and trims make much more of an impression than detailed tailoring and they are the difference between making a passable outfit and making something amazing.they dont take skill just time .

CUFFS

bodice p cuff

cuff

purple cuff

regency gown sleeve

red sleevsand cuff

cap detail

gable hood front

red jewled caraco jacket

petticoat_by_abigial709b-d46wp1y

mourning bonnet

green poke boonett

1830s dress scarbough

robe_a_la_francais_by_abigial709b-d3k7ald

saque back narrow panniers

 

regency gown  full length

regency gown back1

green coat

green brocade dress

 

portrait_of_the_lady_by_hathaways-d5lozkj

cbedit

And the final and equaly important element  stunning fabrics ,these dont need to be specially bought fabric ,just eye catching the cape below is made from an old fur coat to edge the hood and a satin duvet cover from a charity shop,if your fabric is eye catching enough you can get by with less detailing

SILVER CLOAK

medieval gown 2

blue easter gowb

bluebells woods

parasonage red dress

red dms dress

red pettitcoat 1

golden gown bingley gable hood

 

golden gown

regency golden gown

tills

grey_bustle_dress_by_abigial709b-d4y7lhj

green tudor gown

Lastly I was trying to choose the photo I would most like to remember my costume work by and I think it must be this

evil queen  panto weekend

It was an amazing day,I loved working at the Haworth Christmas events,I loved the mask and the umbrella was a present from a friend ,the gown was quite easy to make but looked amazing yet the outfit took several hours to put on mostly because my huge hair took up three hours of work .

hair pantoweekend

Lastly because  was working with a young friend who looked pretty in a polonaise gown and hat I had made

harry candid shot

harry1

she was the princess to my Evil queen ,both with full accessories,carefully made gloves petticoats ,even lace edged handkerchiefs,but we also both had on thick  lined wellies ,,snow ice and a temperature well into the minuses meant that was the only way to glide effortlessly up the main street and during the parades

me harry panto

I was working with friends for friends

pantoweekend processiopn2

panto weekend steps

And it was my last Haworth Christmas costumed outing .

I had a wonderful decade of costuming and hope my cheats costume guides will help others have a equally enjoyable time ,either at single events or at re enctments or even as costumers.

Best wishes to all my blog readers who are just starting out on their costuming journey,I wish you success and many happy hours both creating and wearing your outfits

Lyn Marie Cunliffe.

 

 

 

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About hathawaysofhaworth

I am a Historian and author living in the north
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